I was in the #Algarve recently and I chose to stop in #Olhão for a few days to check out the Caminho das Lendas. This roughly translates as the “Way of Legends” or the "Tales Path" and is a route through the historic town of #Portugal that tells the stories of five local myths through sculptures by artists #IsaFernandes and #LeonelMoura. The #labyrinth of tales connect the five main squares of the historic town.
I absolutely loved walking around the old fishing town and finding out more about these myths and legends. I had previously heard some of the stories described as “downright silly”, but that’s actually just the way I like my stories so I couldn’t wait to find out more.
As I wandered around finding the mythical statues and reading about the local legends, I must admit, the detail on each of the plaques is a bit light! I found out more from the locals, from reading and searching the internet and from the museum in the heart of Olhão. It turns out there is a lot more to all of the stories and a lot of different versions of them.
The five legends are about #Marim, #Floripes, the #EnchantedMoorishBoy, the #BigEyedBoy and #Arraul. I’m going to tell you about each of them, but what I've written here isn’t like-for-like with what the trail tells you. I’ve researched different versions, cherry picked my favourite bits and sprinkled them with a bit of poetic licence (like most stories on my blog to be fair). So what are we waiting for, let’s start with Marim….
The Legend of Marim
First up (going from East to West), we have the #LegendofMarim in Largo de Fabrica Velha. The walls of the square are covered with epic murals and sitting in the middle of the square is a sculpture by artist Isa Fernandes which represents the Legend of Marim.
#Marim is a place East of Olhão and there was once a Princess called Alina who lived there in a beautiful palace. She was totally in love with some Moorish dude called Abdalá. But Abdalá was a musician! A troubadour!
Note: a #troubadour is just what they called musicians back in the day, I’m telling you this because I didn’t know and had to Google it… but let’s get back to the story…
As we all know, every dad hates their daughter dating a musician. Every night he would come and sing beautiful love songs to his daughter. It made the king sick to his stomach, his daughter was too good for this guy! He forbade them from seeing each other but old Abdalá didn’t care. Every night he would come back and sing his “wretched” tunes.
The land at Marim was dry and the people of Marim needed water. The king decided to give Abdalá an impossible task. There was a spring 13 leagues away and he told Abdalá he would let him court his daughter if he could bring the water to his land in one night.
The next day he heard that darned music again! He stormed into his daughter’s room and there she was, head out the window listening to the troubador’s music. She cried out that she loved Abdalá and it made the king so mad he threw her out of the window. What the king didn’t realise was that Abdalá had succeeded in his challenge and he’d bought the river right up to the castle. She fell out of the window into his arms and they were washed away down the stream.
If you listen carefully, as you walk along the river banks in Marim you can sometimes still hear the troubadour playing his lute and the princess sing. Very occasionally you can even spot them in the waters floating downstream.
The Legend of Floripes
Just one block along in Praça Patrão Joaquim Lopes we have the statue of the enchanted Maurin Floripes representing the #LegendofFloripes. The artist, Leonel Moura, has created a stunning sculpture of the #temptress who tried to lure #fishermen into the water on full moon nights. There are lots of stories about her, and even a #Portuguese film with interviews from locals recounting the #LegendofFloripes. (Watch here on Youtube)
After seeing the statue, I kept a look out for the “real” Floripes around Olhão. Legend has it, there are a few places you can spot her:
In the water,
On rooftops,
Chatting to the boy with the big eyes and the red cap (who we will find out more about later on in another legend),
And shopping around town - she pays for things with one gold coin and then disappears without her change. If you don’t want your change, the Olhão locals will say you are like Floripes.
Unfortunately I didn’t manage to see her during my visit despite keeping my beady eyes open. I think because I am a woman she wasn’t interested in revealing herself to me. She is after a man to marry to break her enchantment.
During the Reconquista the Moorish were expelled from the Algarve and a beautiful Moorish woman was left behind. Her name was Floripes. Her family and fiance fled back to North Africa without realising she wasn’t with them. Her fiance tried to come back for her but his boat was caught in a storm and it cracked on a rock and he drowned. Her father knew this was a sign that meant that no one could come back for her, so he enchanted her.
To break the curse a man must embrace her on the banks of a river (in some stories he must also cut off his arm at the height of his heart, in others, he must stab her in the arm close to her heart), he must then accompany her to Africa across the ocean with two lit candles without them going out and then marry her. If he succeeds he would have fabulous treasures, but if he fails she would have to eat his heart.
When discussing this in the pub, my friends and I weren't sure if the risk was worth the reward….
The story on the plaque by the statue tells us about one particular man; an old drunkard named Ze. Like I explained earlier, the plaque is a little light on detail, so I’ll give you some more of the inside scoop.
There was an old abandoned mill that Ze would sometimes sleep in when stumbling home. One night a beautiful Moorish woman appeared, she came over to him and stroked his hair whilst he slept. He remembered her in the morning but he thought she was a dream. The next night he slept there he realised she wasn’t a dream! She started appearing every night at midnight, and she would pleasure the old man, doing very naughty things to him (perhaps tipping the risk/reward ratio?!).
He told his mates about it in the pub but they wouldn’t believe it. No one would believe it! He told them to come with him to the mill at midnight to see for themselves, but they couldn’t be arsed, they knew Ze was telling drunken porkies again.
Ze got so frustrated that he bet his whole farm that it was true! Ze said if someone comes with him and he’s telling the truth and she’s there, he will give them his whole farm (the bet was totally the wrong way round, he knew it was true so he should have bet if it wasn’t true he would give away the farm, but hey ho, he was a drunk).
A dude called Juliao, who was just about to get married to a girl called Aninhas, thought he could really do with a farm for his new married life so took Ze up on the bet. He went with Ze to the mill at midnight to see if his story checked out.
The mill was dark and eerie and Julião was scared, although he tried not to show it. Ze said that Julião should go the rest of the way by himself as the woman might get scared off with them both there.
His fiance Aninhas knew about the silly bet and waited at home. She was nervous because apparently the woman was the most beautiful lady that Ze had ever seen in his whole life! What if her Julião became fixated with her like Ze had?
Ze said the woman lived in the light of the moon on the white walls of the mill, that is where she would appear. He sat and waited. Ze watched from his hiding spot. The church bells sounded midnight and Julião waited. He waited for what seemed like an age. He was about to give up and go home when suddenly a figure in the wall. He blinked and she was standing next to him.
“Are you the Moorish lady that Ze speaks of?” the boy asks the beautiful woman. Her long dress and hair floated in the wind.
“Yes, I am Floripes, I was left here when my family fled” and she tells Julião the whole story of how she was abandoned here and how she can never leave until someone breaks the curse. She begins to weep. He feels sorry for her.
“Can I help you break the spell?” he asks. She takes his hand and together they walk off.
Ze, who is watching all of this, was so mad! It wasn’t part of the deal that he would go off with her. Floripes was his and he loved her. He ran off to tell Aninhas.
Ze and Aninhas were in the kitchen, Aninhas was in bits, she was crying. The thing she didn’t want to happen had happened! Her fiance had fallen for the beautiful Moorish woman and they had run away together. At that moment, Julião runs through the door.
“Julião, what happened?!” Aninhas exclaims, not knowing whether to be happy or angry.
“She wanted me to run away with her, to cross the ocean with her and to marry her. I told her I couldn’t and that I was engaged to you. She started to get angry and she asked me who was more beautiful, her or you and I said you! She got so mad, I didn’t know what she was going to do, so I ran! I love you Aninhas.” Julião wipes away Aninhas tears and they embrace.
Julião looks around for Ze to claim his farm, but Ze is gone. Aninhas and Julião are confused because they didn’t hear him leave, he just vanished. No one ever saw Ze again. Aninhas and Julião got married, got Ze’s farm and lived a happy life together there.
It is said that the Moorish lady took Ze and they tried to make the crossing to North Africa. Ze loved her and would do anything for her, but my guess is they didn’t make it very far. A life of boozing hadn’t done Ze any good and he was old by the time he met Floripes. Maybe that’s why she was trying to find someone younger.
Floripes has been spotted around Olhão since this happened way back when, so she’s probably still stuck here. I wonder who the next man will be foolish enough to attempt the crossing.
The Legend of the Enchanted Moorish Boy
Next up we have the #LegendoftheEnchantedMoorishBoy in Largo do Gaibéu by artist Isa Fernandes. The story on the plaque next to the sculpture didn’t make much sense to me, so I did some digging to find out the full story.
I came across a book from 1898 by Ataíde Oliveira about the Enchanted Moors of the Algarve with a real life account of what happened! The book is written in Portuguese, so I had to get it translated. In the book, Mr Oliveira is exploring local myths and legends (much like me and NIgel do!). Someone tells him to seek out an old man named Manuel Caliça Branco who has a story to tell from when he was a child. Mr Oliveira finds out where he lives, and knocks on his door.
“I came to your house in order to find out the truth of an event that happened to you.”
The 70 year old man with a white fisherman’s beard nods and lets him inside.
"What was the enchantment that you saw as a child?” Mr Oliveira asks.
“When I was eight or ten years old, I was playing ball with boys my age when a child appeared. My playmates were all retiring to their homes. The child, who was slightly older than me, asked, do you want to play with me? I do, I replied.
We started playing, but he was terrible at catching. I asked, do you not know this game? He said no, but that he knew other ones, better ones. I asked, what games? He said put yourself on my back and you'll see!
I was excited and immediately jumped on his back. But imagine my surprise when he didn't walk, he flew! He flew to a trapdoor on a road near Horta do Souzinha. It opened as we approached and through the trapdoor was a palace of gold. More gold than I had ever seen. We went to the palace and remained there until it was time for me to go home. I asked him to take me to my house.
He said, yes, I'll take you and I won't leave you. I will walk beside you invisibly, I will sit at the table with you, eat with you and lie down with you. I will be there with you, unseen.
As soon as I got home I told my father everything, who told me to be careful because that boy was not a good boy. He asked, didn’t this fellow tell you who he was? I said yes, he told me he was an enchanted Moor. My father asked, didn't he tell you how he got to be enchanted. I said yes, he told me, but I forgot. Many people to this day have asked me the same question, but my memory never came back.
My father looked around the room and asked me if I knew if the boy was still accompanying me, invisibly. I didn’t know. But, for a while, I felt he was there. If my mother gave me two fish for lunch, one would immediately disappear.”
At this point Mr Oliveira who is making notes, looks up, clearly suspicious of the story.
“I know it sounds crazy,” says Manual “but I swear to you that what I'm telling you is true. I'm an old man and I don't usually sully my white beard with lies.”
"And did this invisible companion stay with you for a long time?" Mr Oliveira asks.
“The first time I felt… unaccompanied, was after the first time I went to confession and received Communion. That’s when I felt him disappear.”
"And did you ever return to the enchanted palace?” Mr Oliveira enquiries.
"Only if I was a fool. I didn’t ever go back.” Manuel told his story with such conviction. Mr Oliveira left wondering, could it really be true?
The Legend of the Big-Eyed Boy
The penultimate legend is in Largo do Carolas and tells the story of the Big-Eyed Boy. The angry looking sculpture is by Leonel Moura. As we found out earlier, The Big-Eyed Boy is mates with Floripes (from our second legend) and they can be seen chatting sometimes around Olhão. Although APPARENTLY he no longer appears because when Moura Felipes tried to get to her family in North Africa, she took him with her. But, I don't think she ever got there so I think there’s a strong possibility he’s still around here; I’m going to keep my eye out for him.
The legend is short and sweet. The story goes that on dark nights in the Barreta quarter, a short, fat crying boy with huge black eyes would appear to the fishermen. He would say nothing, just look up at them with those big, round eyes, soaked with tears.
The fishermen would feel sorry for him and they would try and comfort him and pick him up. They would put him on their knees or try to walk with him, but the further they walked or the longer he was on their knee, the heavier he got. The weight would eventually become unbearable and they would have to put the child down. They would then have to leave him there, standing alone and sobbing.
I couldn’t find out much more about this small boy. Was he one of the #Moors who was left behind when the Moors fled the Algarve, like Floripes? My research has left me none the wiser. I still don’t know where he came from, I don’t know where he is now, I don’t know why he’s crying and I don’t know why the statue looks so angry. If I saw him in the street looking like that I wouldn’t pick him up, he looks terrifying!
If you can shed any more light on this story, then please get in touch.
The Legend of Arraúl
Last but by no means least, the brings us to our final legend, the #LegendofArraúl in Largo João da Carma, another awesome sculpture by artist Isa Fernandes. Arraúl is basically the main man around Olhão. It is said Olhão wouldn’t exist without him as he protected it by building the islands’ barrier.
According to the legend, #Arraúl was believed to be the twentieth son of the head guardian of the Pillars of #Heracles in the city of #Atlantis. When Atlantis met its tragic fate and sank beneath the waves, Arraúl found himself as the sole survivor. Carried by the currents, he eventually washed ashore at the Sítio das Prainhas, a place not far from Olhão.
As Arraúl stepped foot on the land, he was captivated by its breathtaking beauty. Overwhelmed by the fear that this kingdom might suffer the same fate as Atlantis, Arraúl decided to dedicate himself to protecting the coast from the relentless sea.
In an effort to safeguard the region, Arraúl embarked on a monumental task. He began transporting stones and earth from the nearby Cerro da Cabeça, meticulously constructing the sandy islands that are dotted along the coast. With his superhuman strength and determination, Arraúl built the islands of Fuseta, Armona, and Culatra.
However, the currents constantly shifted and shaped the sand, creating the unique and intricate network of channels and lagoons known as the Ria Formosa along the coast of the Algarve. Arraúl's efforts transformed the landscape, providing a natural barrier against the powerful waves of the ocean and preserving the delicate ecosystems within the Ria Formosa.
In gratitude for Arraúl's extraordinary feat, the people of Olhão revere him as a guardian and protector. They celebrate his courage, strength, and unwavering dedication to safeguarding their coast. The statue pays homage to the legend of Arraúl and symbolises the connection between the local community and the sea.
Whilst in the Algarve I went for runs around the Ria Formosa most days. It was stunning and a must see if you ever go and visit!
How to find the statues
If you want to go and check them out for yourself, here's a #map of where you can find them.
But I wouldn't worry too much about using the map, the most fun way is to just wander round and look out for these signs:
However, if you are feeling lazy or are in a hurry, I made this Google Map for you so you can easily find exactly where they are.
Know any variations to these stories? Ever spotted any of the characters from these tales around Olhão? Or do you think there is a local legend missing from the #tour? Let us know your thoughts below!
Comments